2011 F350 King Ranch
6.7 deleted
Crew cab short bed
Has a tuner (not sure which one)
Minor rocker rust
Bed might need replacing due to some soft spots under the spray liner.
So, here’s the deal: my friend’s dad is looking to sell his truck, and I might be interested. After doing some research, I asked him what he’d want for it. Turns out, since it’s deleted, he can’t trade it in, so he offered it to me for $10-12k. This caught me by surprise, as I was expecting it to be around 20k or so.
I know this is the first model year for the 6.7, and usually, I don’t go for first-year models. But he’s taken great care of it, and his mechanic (who I know too) is a pro diesel tech. At 170k miles, it seems like it’s pretty solid. For $10k, even if the engine needed work down the line, I’d still be ahead. Anything specific I should keep an eye on or be worried about? Thanks!
It sounds like a good deal, but trust me, rust is a pain to deal with, especially on trucks. You might end up paying a lot more in repairs if the rust starts getting worse.
Thorne said:
It sounds like a good deal, but trust me, rust is a pain to deal with, especially on trucks. You might end up paying a lot more in repairs if the rust starts getting worse.
Honestly, the reason it’s 10k isn’t because of the engine, it’s because of the rust issues.
@Thorne
Yeah, I hear you. We live near saltwater, so rust is kind of a fact of life around here. The bed is probably because of a bad liner job, but the rocker rust isn’t too bad, so I’m not super worried.
I’ve had my 2011 6.7 for 8 years now, got it at 60k miles, now at 125k.
Main issue with the 2011s was the emissions stuff—EGR coolers and DPFs would clog if you weren’t doing regular regen drives. Also, they came with the CP4 pump, which is known for failures, but if you use good fuel and change filters regularly, it usually holds up fine. A disaster prevention kit can help in case it fails.
Turbo issues are common in early models, but a lot of those failures were from guys running hot tunes while towing heavy loads. I’ve kept mine stock and haven’t had problems.
Only thing chassis-wise I’d look at are the cab mounts—they tend to rot out. But S&B makes silicone replacements that hold up a lot better.
@Lior
I checked out that disaster prevention kit from S&S. $400 seems like cheap insurance! Saw they have a full conversion kit too. For 2k on a truck this cheap, I’m tempted to just go for it.
Kit said: @Lior
I checked out that disaster prevention kit from S&S. $400 seems like cheap insurance! Saw they have a full conversion kit too. For 2k on a truck this cheap, I’m tempted to just go for it.
Yeah, if you’re comfortable working on the motor, the DCR conversion could be a good investment for sure.
We’ve got a 2013 with over 250k miles. Deleted it over 100k miles ago, and it’s been a dream to drive since then. I think the truck could easily make it to 500k. The fuel pump is the only thing that worries me though. It’s an issue even on new models.
Kit said: @Hartley
Are there any good aftermarket fuel pumps? With the low price on the truck, I’m good with spending on some upgrades for longevity.
There’s one called DCR that’s highly recommended. Costs around $3500, but it’s solid. You could go with a disaster prevention kit for around $1500, but if the pump fails, you’ll still need a new one. I just got a 2024 model, and my diesel shop advised me to change the pump early.
Kit said: @Hartley
Are there any good aftermarket fuel pumps? With the low price on the truck, I’m good with spending on some upgrades for longevity.
From experience, the ‘flawed’ 2011 and 2012 models are actually okay with just the disaster prevention kit. I’ve got 250k on my 2012 (deleted at 150k), and my CP4 is still going strong, and my turbo lasted to 240k.
The turbo failure rate is a bit higher than normal, not gonna lie. I replace about 20-30 turbos a year. Main thing is, the vacuum pump gaskets tend to leak oil. But with the emissions gone, that’s a plus.
Kit said: @Lyle
Thanks for the heads up on the turbo. Is there a specific sign of trouble to watch for, like play in the bearings?
A little play is normal, but usually, when they fail, it’ll show up as underboost and throw a code. Very rarely does it lead to a full-on turbo blowout.