This thing is actually starting to leak a lot, so I am going to buy an oil pan for it. I would like to know if anyone has any advice on how to accomplish this task because I am aware that attempting to work on the truck’s engine is not worth it.
Are there any further seals or parts that I need also replace?
Not too hard, but it takes time. Remove the pan and turn the engine upside down. After letting it set for a full day to allow the oil to completely drain, I check to make sure the mating surfaces are spotless. Which kind of substitute pan are you utilizing? Employing a gasket?
Why would you flip it? Wouldn’t that cause all of the trash to fall into the cylinders from the pan? I recently acquired a 7.3 last week, and I am attempting to become as knowledgeable as can about it. It is my first diesel. 
Turn it upside down to avoid getting oil on the pan rail. Seal it using only silicone, specifically, use Ford’s TA-31 sealant, as it is exceptionally durable. If you want to learn more, that YouTube channel has a lot of helpful information, or feel free to ask here and we will do our best to assist.
I have seen both silicone and gasket installations which still require sealer work effectively. Many people who replaced their pans with Moroso pans used gaskets, and they can work if installed correctly and if the pan is straight. However, I’ve encountered quite a few Moroso pans that weren’t stamped correctly. Personally, sealing the pan directly to the block is the best approach, but it must be done cleanly and properly to ensure long-lasting results.
What location is the leak? Oil pans that are leaking or rusty can be fixed using a variety of aftermarket epoxy, plastic, or fiberglass kits without removing the engine. Although it requires some preparation and labor, we erected one for a buddy years ago, and it is still there and leak-free.
The last time I did one, I really wished I had used one of these adapters. I went with the standard one, and there’s always a chance it might leak again.