Best setup for full time Rv build

I have done quite a bit of research and I’m ready to go for a diesel, likely at least an F350, but I’m also considering an F450 or F550 for the better turning radius. I plan to eventually convert any DRW to SRW, though that’s a lower priority. The truck should have at least an 8-foot bed.

Here are my current options:

  • 7.3 Powerstroke with a manual
  • 2015-2017 6.7 Powerstroke with an automatic
  • 7.3 Powerstroke with an automatic

If the newer trucks weren’t so difficult to work on, they would be my top choice, but I want something I can fix while traveling. I am also leaning toward a regular cab for a shorter wheelbase.

The build won’t be as massive as an EarthRoamer, but I expect the total weight to approach 10,000 lbs.

Which option would you choose?

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Keep in mind that to perform engine repairs on modern diesels like the 6.7, the cab needs to be removed. Therefore, a cab-over design is not ideal unless you can easily detach the habitat.

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For what it’s worth, I have seen several Ford-based overland RVs with a cab-over design, so servicing is likely possible, though it probably comes at a high cost.

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You will likely end up over 10,000 lbs. I have a 2000 E450 ambulance, and the aluminum box was originally 10,400 lbs; after my modifications, it weighs 12,200 lbs, and my gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) is now 14,050 lbs, giving me some capacity for growth or towing. I bought it for $10,000, and it would have cost me at least that much for the materials to build that box. If you’re considering a vehicle, go for an F450 or F550 with at least 4.10 gears. An E350 won’t provide the gearing or GVWR you’ll need. If you plan to install super singles, you’ll want 4.56 gears or higher, but personally, I wouldn’t recommend that. Look at auction sites for Fire Department brush trucks; many of them already have the super single conversion completed.

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For the maximum power, I vote. You’ll wish to use 10k for that. 6.7, and it’s not even near.

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I was hoping to get a little more performance out of the 7.3. For me to truly see the difference, I must drive a 6.7.

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Stock for stock, the 6.7 has more than double the horsepower and torque compared to the 7.3. While you can squeeze more power out of a 7.3, it often comes at the cost of reliability and towing capacity.

It seems unwise to rely on a 20-year-old chassis and engine for your future full-time home that you want to move reliably. Although the engine itself is dependable, the transmission and suspension may not meet your expectations. You’ll likely face issues related to age as well as drivetrain concerns.

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I definitely don’t want to make any foolish choices. My reasoning was that even if the older engine is less reliable, I could carry a variety of spare parts and fix it if I break down in a remote area. It’s worth mentioning that I’ve only practiced this with an old VW van, where repairs in the middle of nowhere are probably much simpler than with a 7.3 though I admit I say this from a position of complete ignorance.

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It goes without saying that working on the 7.3 will be more simpler, but it will be outdated. In my opinion, a what is essentially a new truck might bring you a lot, lot more smooth driving miles than an old one.

Power and riding quality are the most important factors to me, and the 6.7 excels in both areas.