So, a buddy of mine has a 2004 6.0 F-250, and he’s telling me he’s “put a lot of money into the engine.” He’s asking $3k for it, but says his mechanic friend told him it needs a new wiring harness. The truck’s been sitting in a field for a year or two, and there are wires that got chewed up by rats—so maybe that’s the real issue, not the whole harness? Anyway, I’m looking for a second truck just for towing short distances once a month, and I’m not trying to spend a ton of money.
I’ve attached pictures of the engine bay, exterior, and everything else. I’ve done my fair share of engine rebuilds, but I’m pretty new to diesels. I’ve got a lift and every tool you can think of, so I’d be doing all the repairs myself (probably with help from this forum).
So here’s my question: After checking out the pictures, can any of the 6.0 pros tell me if the mods on this engine make the truck worth fixing up, or should I stay away because of the electrical issues? And if it’s worth it, what should I offer? Maybe $1k?
Looking at those tires, I’d bet oil changes happened on schedule, but everything else was ignored—like fuel filters and alignment. It’s probably idled for days, and I bet the interior is trashed.
Kaius said:
Looking at those tires, I’d bet oil changes happened on schedule, but everything else was ignored—like fuel filters and alignment. It’s probably idled for days, and I bet the interior is trashed.
That’s a lot of assumptions. It just looks like the typical 18-year-old’s diesel with some questionable mods.
Even if you got it for $3k, there’s probably more than that in parts. But don’t start pouring money into it—buying a running one for a little more would be the smarter move.
Has the HPOP been upgraded to the 05+ version? If yes, ask for proof like receipts. If not, it’ll cost between $500-$800 to upgrade.
How’s the main engine harness? A new one costs around $600+.
Is the FICM harness in good shape? If not, that’s another $60-$280.
Is the truck studded and the EGR deleted? If not, that’s a big expense, especially if you’re having a shop do it.
Summary: For $3k, you could part it out and maybe break even if it turns out to be junk. But how much is your time worth? Personally, if the engine turned over and the body/frame wasn’t rotting, I’d gamble around $2.5k if I had the money. But set a hard limit on how much you’re willing to spend on repairs.
The 6.0 can be a reliable engine, but it takes time, effort, and money to get there.
The wheels and tires (maybe suspension too) make me think it rides horribly. Good news is, you could probably trade them for some nicer stock ones. First thing I’d do is track down the electrical issues and check the harness under the valve covers if it still won’t start. You might also want to see if the old batteries can hold a charge. If not, throw in some good ones and see what happens when you try to crank it. How many miles does it have? And is the owner saying it was parked due to harness issues?
Stay away. The K&N air filter is no good, and the airbox is missing screws. That’s a red flag. The fact it has a coolant filter makes me think the owner cared a little, but I wouldn’t bet on it. I’ve worked on a ton of 6.0s, and very few people bother with coolant filters.
With oiled filters, the oil does the filtering, not the foam itself. The foam just holds the oil. Most people don’t clean the filters often enough or oil them properly, especially around the seams. If you’ve ever oiled a dirt bike filter, it’s similar—you need to be thorough with it. I’ve done a lot of used oil analysis testing, and engines with K&N or other oiled filters almost always have more dirt getting in, leading to shorter engine life. The stock filter with Donaldson media is one of the best out there. It filters well and flows great for a stock setup.
K&N filters increase airflow by being less restrictive, but that also means they filter less. You get a short-term performance boost but more wear on the engine over time.
