Hey everyone, my 7.3 has been dealing with a crank no start issue ever since I took it to the shop for brakes and steering column repairs. I never had this problem before, but I brought it back to them, and they replaced the alternator and grey CPS, claiming it was fixed. Unfortunately, it wasn’t, because I broke down at a gas station just 10 miles later with the same issue. I had it towed home, checked the ICP, and noticed oil on the connector. I tried starting it unplugged, and it fired up. However, that must’ve been a fluke because even after I replaced the ICP myself, I’m still getting the crank no start issue, though it occasionally starts at random. I’m not sure what to do at this point. The only other thing I can think of is the IPR sensor.
Most have covered the main issues, but if you have another running Powerstroke available, consider swapping out the IDM boxes. Definitely explore the other options as well, since they tend to be simpler. The best advice I received was to check the oil and the batteries it could really be that straightforward. I saw you checked the oil and are charging the batteries overnight, I hope that’s all you need to do.
Thanks. I hope so too. I am going to find my multimeter and test the voltage on the battery and alternator. The battery has been on the trickle charger all night and throughout the day.
For pleasure only. Have you checked to see whether it has enough oil?
Yes, completely filled up. HPOP was recently replaced as well. When cranked, the tailpipe did not release any smoke.
There is no smoke coming from the tailpipe when cranking, which indicates the injectors are not fogging. This suggests there may be a lack of fuel or injection oil pressure. I had a high-pressure oil pump (HPOP) that I installed myself fail just three days after the warranty expired.
To definitively rule out the HPOP issue, you can check the pressure in each oil rail using the test/bleed plugs. You need at least 500 psi to crank, but it should be higher.
Both heads should also show the same crank oil pressure, of course.
Another issue I have experienced with both OBSs I’ve owned is that something in the steering column or tilt wheel can short out the ignition. I once hit a 4x4 fence post while approaching a stoplight, causing the engine to quit and preventing it from cranking. When I rocked the tilt wheel, it started right up, as if nothing had happened.
Does the tachometer move while cranking? And does the wait to start light come on?
When cranking, the tack increases to about 200 rpm, and the cranking speed appears to be rather good as well. Hold off until the light also illuminates. It was not like that before I took it to the shop, but after looking at the alternator connection, I noticed that the single connector has copper wire leaking out and the plastic clip does not seem to be very tight. I am not sure whether this may cause a crank no start.
That could potentially be part of the issue. I would recommend putting a charger on it overnight to see if that helps. It might be cranking just a bit too slowly to start.
Got it. I will give that a try. Thank you.
Inquiringly, since they switched the steering columns, could you please check your neutral safety switch? I am very confident that will result in both a crank no start and a no crank problem not applicable to you.
I am not entirely sure how to check, but I tried starting it in both neutral and park, and I still got a crank but no start. Occasionally, it will start with a rough idle at first, but then it smooths out. It also died on me while I was driving, though I am not sure if that information is helpful or not.