Which is better for reliability … Ford, Dodge, or GMC?

I’m trying to figure out what to buy. I’m looking for a 1-ton diesel truck to pull a travel trailer and haul the family. I’m leaning towards trucks from the 2000-2009 range because of pricing and the emissions stuff on newer models.

There’s so much talk about the engines and transmissions for these trucks, but I’m struggling to find solid info about how reliable the rest of the truck is. I’ve heard things like, “Dodge has great engines but terrible trucks,” but I’m looking for more details.

A good engine is important, but I don’t want to spend all my time and money fixing suspension, electrical, HVAC, or other problems. For anyone who owns or used to own these trucks from that range, what’s your experience with the reliability of the truck itself (besides the powertrain)? Any advice?

I know this has probably been asked a million times, but my searches keep pulling up engine and transmission discussions. Sorry if it’s repetitive.

I had a 2002 F350 with a 7.3 (it got stolen recently) and a 2005 Duramax. The Ford was a Lariat with a nice interior, super comfortable seats, and plenty of space. It wasn’t fast, but it hauled anything like a champ.

The Chevy felt more modern and nimble. The interior was smaller but still comfortable. The Duramax engine was quick, and the transmission was solid. That said, I’ve replaced pretty much every wear part—front end, brakes, steering gearbox, hydro boost, and dealt with a ton of rust.

Both are great trucks in their way. My buddy is a big Cummins fan and loves them, but he admits the rest of the truck often falls apart around the engine.

@Cody
Thanks for the details! Do you live in an area with a lot of rust issues?

Cameron said:
@Cody
Thanks for the details! Do you live in an area with a lot of rust issues?

Not really. I’m in North Carolina. But I got the truck in a trade, and I’m not sure where it was before.

@Cody
Got it. Appreciate the insight!

Cameron said:
@Cody
Got it. Appreciate the insight!

Anytime! Let me know if you have other questions. I’m trying to sell the Duramax now, but after losing my 7.3, I’m second-guessing everything.

Avoid the 6.4 Powerstroke. Trust me. There’s a reason they only made it for three years.

Eli said:
Avoid the 6.4 Powerstroke. Trust me. There’s a reason they only made it for three years.

Yeah, I’ve heard the same thing. I did think about getting one with a blown engine and doing a Cummins swap. But only if the rest of the truck is solid.

@Cameron
The chassis on those trucks is decent. The straight axle is easy to work on, but they can develop a death wobble. That’s usually fixed with a new track bar and ball joint. Watch out for the cab mounts—they degrade over time and can be expensive to replace.

Eli said:
Avoid the 6.4 Powerstroke. Trust me. There’s a reason they only made it for three years.

My neighbor’s 6.4 blew up at 100,000 miles. The dealer wanted $20k for a new engine or offered $3k in trade-in. They’re a nightmare. Ford even got hit with lawsuits over that engine.

@Grayson
My dad’s 6.4 had two engines fail before 100,000 miles. By 120,000, it was done for good. It was just one issue after another.

Eli said:
Avoid the 6.4 Powerstroke. Trust me. There’s a reason they only made it for three years.

I have an ’08 F250 with a 6.4 that’s still running at 200k miles. I deleted the DPF, removed the cat, and added a tuner for better fuel economy. It hauls my fifth wheel and boat just fine.

@Hayden
You’re living on borrowed time, my friend.

Suspension parts on any truck usually need replacing by 150,000 miles. I’ve owned Fords, GMs, and Dodges, and I’ve had to fix ball joints, steering linkages, and shocks on all of them.

AC issues are common, especially compressor clutch failures and refrigerant leaks. Rust in the wheel wells is a big issue for early 2000s Fords because of the foam inserts they used, which trap water.

My 2005 F350 Lariat with 190k miles has held up pretty well. The AC leaks, and I’ve replaced suspension parts, but the body and frame are still solid. It’s not as smooth as newer trucks, but it didn’t cost $80k either.

My advice: focus on finding a truck in good shape rather than worrying too much about the brand.

@Grayson
Forgot to mention, I’m tall (6’3” with a 36” inseam), so I need a roomy cab. I once had a ’95 F350 standard cab, and my knees were practically in my face.

@Grayson
Good to know! I’m okay with regular maintenance, but I wanted to avoid any glaring weak spots. Thanks for mentioning the AC issues—functioning HVAC is a must for the family.

Cameron said:
@Grayson
Good to know! I’m okay with regular maintenance, but I wanted to avoid any glaring weak spots. Thanks for mentioning the AC issues—functioning HVAC is a must for the family.

AC repairs usually cost around $1,000 in Michigan. Not the worst thing.

@Grayson
That’s a relief. I’m fine with tinkering, but I get nervous about AC repairs after getting burned by a repair quote on an old VW.

Dodges are the worst for everything except the Cummins engine. Cheap parts, rust everywhere, bad chassis and electronics—it’s all terrible. The engine is great, though. Too bad the rest of the truck falls apart around it.

Here’s a breakdown of what I think about the different brands:

Chevy/GMC:

  • 2001-2002 LB7: Decent engine but lots of electrical problems.
  • 2003-2004 LB7: Improved wiring and interior. Reliable and affordable.
  • 2005-2006 LLY: More power but factory radiators are small.
  • 2006-2007 LBZ: Best pre-emissions engine. Be careful of worn-out ones.
  • 2007-2011 LMM: Avoid unless deleted. First emissions Duramax.

Ford:

  • Stick with 1999-2003 7.3s. Don’t touch 6.0s or 6.4s unless you like headaches.

Dodge/Ram:

  • 3rd gen 5.9 Cummins is the sweet spot. Decent interiors and engines. Automatics can be a gamble.

Hope that helps!