Lior said:
@Wylie
If you plug both sides of the EGR cooler, you’ll need a tune to avoid a P0401 low flow code.
I’ve heard plugging it can mess with the fan clutch. Is that true?
Lior said:
@Wylie
If you plug both sides of the EGR cooler, you’ll need a tune to avoid a P0401 low flow code.
I’ve heard plugging it can mess with the fan clutch. Is that true?
Only if you unplug the EGR’s electrical connection, and even then, not all trucks are affected.
@Hart
Got it. So plugging the EGR and leaving it connected should work fine if you get a tune. Good to know!
Lior said:
@Wylie
If you plug both sides of the EGR cooler, you’ll need a tune to avoid a P0401 low flow code.
Right now, my EGR cooler is out, so I’ll probably plug it, tune it, and see if I can pass smog. If not, I’ll install the Bulletproof EGR.
I did an OEM oil cooler and a Bulletproof EGR cooler about two years ago, and they’ve been great so far.
OEM oil cooler is the way to go. You can also pair it with the Bulletproof oil cooler for max cooling. Add a coolant filter for extra protection and flush the system with VC-9 before changing the oil cooler.
If you keep the EGR cooler, go Bulletproof. If you delete it, get performance up-pipes without the EGR port. Don’t just block it off—it’ll crack from vibration eventually. Some people use freeze plugs to seal it completely, or weld it.
While you’re at it, replace the IPR and consider rebuilding the turbo or at least cleaning the vanes.
@Grey
I replaced the HPOP 20,000 miles ago, and it came with a new IPR. I’ll inspect it but probably won’t need to replace it. Thanks for the tips on the EGR and turbo! I’ll post updates once I start the build.
If you’re deleting the EGR, make sure to install studs. The EGR relieves excess boost pressure, and without it, you’ll need to watch your EGTs closely.
If you’re going for maximum reliability and flexibility with smog compliance, go with the Bulletproof EGR cooler. I’d highly recommend their external air-to-oil cooler kit too—it eliminates oil cooler issues completely. While you’re in there, upgrade the HPOP. Fair warning, that’ll add about $5,500 to your build.
I’ve used Exotic head studs on three 6.0 builds, and they’ve been great—they’re cheaper than ARP too. For oil coolers, I recommend PPE for better cooling. Honestly, I’d just delete the EGR system; it always fails eventually. If you have to keep it, upgrade the exhaust manifolds to reduce stress on cylinders 7 and 8.