Trade it in for a 6.7
If you have a hot no-start issue, it’s usually a high-pressure oil leak. The oil thickens when it cools, allowing it to start. You can do an air test on the IPR valve to check for leaks. O-rings tend to fail and cause high-pressure oil leaks in these engines. Many mechanics misdiagnose it
@Brook
I’ll try that, thanks!
Replacing the injector bank fixed my issues
Soren said:
Replacing the injector bank fixed my issues
I might be a little lost here. Are you referring to the FICM?
I had a tough time with my 6.0. The original problem was a front seal on the HPOP leaking, causing it not to start. I started small by changing the ICP and IPR. But when I replaced the oil pump, it started sputtering. I had to replace the ICP and IPR again, but with OEM parts. Now my coolant is leaking out the degas bottle, so I’m going back in for new studs and head gaskets
@Ziv
You should also replace your ICP (injection control pressure sensor) and IPR (injection pressure regulator sensor). They should cost around $300 for both. I also suggest cleaning the MAP sensor and EGR solenoid yourself
@Ziv
Thanks! I’ll check into those as well
Make sure to check your EGR system
A low FICM voltage could also be an issue
Zane said:
A low FICM voltage could also be an issue
I checked it when cold and it was normal. I need to run it longer to see what it shows when warm
Get it running and sell it quickly. My first diesel was a 6.0 that had a lot of work put into it. I needed it to tow, but it had issues even after spending $10,000 on repairs. It barely ran for 30 consecutive days. Do yourself a favor and research different engines before replacing it. Avoid the 6.4. The 7.3, 6.6, and 6.7 are much better choices